When
I moved from Newington Green to Clapton, I was most worried about not
having delicious Turkish food on my doorstep - not of the standard I
could get at Mangal, anyway.
I've
found some decent E5 alternatives - my favourite among them is Neden Urfa, a take-away on Southwold Road in Upper Clapton. Sure they do bog
standard doner meat and pita, but order their expertly done skewers of cubed lamb,
chicken, and minced kebabs. At a fiver a pop for two adana skewers,
generous amounts of fresh salad, all wrapped together in freshly
rolled and cooked flatbread, Neden Urfa is excellent on all fronts.
Sure it's all fluorescent striplights inside, but it can't be beaten
on value and taste.
Down
Lower Clapton Road, some fairly good new Turkish options have
appeared. Dom's Place is a facelift on Dunya, and has had the "full
hipster" - lots of washed out timber, exposed industrial pendant
lights, Brooklyn lager and sweet potato fries. Hats off to them for
embracing the new Clapton crowd, and some of the food is good, but on some of my visits I've found the 'de-constructed' wrap a bit clumsy,
and some sides a bit limp.
Further
down, Yoruk has opened with a more traditional look and traditional
menu - with keenly priced grills and a homely vibe. I've been sad to
see it quiet of an evening - undeservedly: it's good, with generous
and warm service.
Not
so quiet is the new Turkish restaurant that's opened up on Chatsworth
Road: Pivaz. Literally at the end of my road, Pivaz's glass front
opens up onto the road, where tables spill out onto the wide
pavement, and the smell of charring lamb fills the air. It looks so
open and welcoming and has been consistently busy from morning to
evening since it opened a few weeks ago.
The
décor and vibe has embraced l'hipster: again, lots of washed out
timber, exposed brick, displays of artfully arranged rusted cogs, and
a soundtrack of 2000s indie hits with the volume cranked up. But
thankfully that hasn't extended to the menu, which is traditional:
cold mezze, hot mezze, grilled meats, fish and veg. Cocktails are on
offer, though, distinguishing it from its more old school Dalston
counterparts.
The
mixed mezze was a very reasonable £7.95, including a yoghurt and
broad bean dish with fronds of dill, a delicious cold aubergine and
tomato dish, decent little borek, creamy humus and a haloumi salad. Every dish was nice,
generously portioned, and with a few flairs.
The
grills landed pretty much as soon as our mezze was taken away, and
came with a tomato and cucumber salad and some buttery rice. The
salad was a little meek compared to the earthy pickles, fiery onions
and tangy sumac you'd get in the salads at my favourite Dalston
joints.
I
ordered adana kebabs – my benchmark for a good Turkish grill. There
were two skewers, the seasoning was authentic, but it would have been
good to have a beyti (spicy) option there too. My only complaint was
that they could have had a bit more of smoky taste from the charcoal,
and a bit more charring on the outside. My mum's cop sis (cubes of
lamb on the grill) were perfectly seasoned – just salty enough and
nicely charred.
It
was an enjoyable meal, good service, and clearly very popular already
– I bumped into quite a few familiar faces, and was pleased to see
a wide range of locals there: not just the monied
twenty-thirty-something set. It may not be the gutsiest Turkish
food, nor the most innovative, but at just over £20 for huge portion
of decent food, a cocktail, and a tip, it's excellent value.
I'll
be back, especially with the smells of the charcoals wafting down my
road and with their Turkish breakfast menu to try (have you ever had
menemen, Turkish scrambled egg with feta and sausage, tomato and
pepper? It's the best.), but if I wanted to show off Hackney Turkish
restaurants to visiting friends, I'd still take them to Dalston.